You are watching: 2001 toyota camry timing belt replacement instructions
The project at a glanceTools: Floor or other jack, jack stands, 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" journey metric sockets 10, 12, 14 and also 19mm, wratches and also wrenches, huge breaker bar, harmonic balancer remover or other puller, two 6mm x 70mm thread pitch 1.00 bolts.Parts: time beltMaterials:Time: 1.5 hours
2) loosen the best front wheel lug nuts, jack up the front and remove the wheel. Collection down on stand or blocks. I choose wood blocks.
4) remove the larger drive belt. Loosen the 14mm alternator pivot bolt and also the 12mm alternator convey lock bolt. Then turn the 14mm convey bolt clockwise till the belt loosens sufficient to remove.
|Loosen the bolts indicated by the white arrows. Turn orange to eliminate belt.|
5) eliminate or collection aside the alternator. This is optional, however recommended since it is rather easy and also affords much more room to work. Remove the two abovementioned bolts, unplug the wiring and also unbolt the 10 mm battery to add connection. If desired it have the right to be collection aside, the end of the method with wiring attached.
6) eliminate the front engine mount, sometimes dubbed the "dogbone." Unbolt 3 14mm mounting bolts and also jiggle it out.7) Unplug a chassis ground.
|Remove these three bolts and also unplug the ground wire.|
8) remove the triangular shame front engine mounting bracket. The top bolt is easy, but let"s get into some detail on the lot harder reduced two bolts.This is a small spot, a just 7 mm vast and utilizing a socket the is too shallow will certainly not permit the ratchet bar to clear and turn.Find some tools with a an unified width that 5.5 to 6.5 cm(2.75"). Finding these ahead that time will save frustration in fitting an effective tool in there. I provided a 14mm 1/2" drive socket in addition to a breaker bar to obtain the radiator side bolt broke. The ago one took a 1/2" slim headed ratchet and the exact same socket. Smaller sized tools will be needed to completely remove the bolts
|These lower bolts are tough due to tight access|
9) remove the strength steering belt. The challenge is in loosening a 10 mm pivot bolt above the pump. I acquired in over there with tiny tools, a 1/4" socket and also ratchet through a tiny cheater pipe. Now the simpler lower 10mm bolt, available with 3/8" ratchet, socket and 6 inch expansion bar. Now move the pump front to loosen and remove the belt.
|Loosening the strength steering pump pivot bolt|
12) remove the crank pulley bolt. This 19mm bolt will likely be a challenge if friend don"t have actually air tools. I generally use a home-made fixture because that this job, made the end of 1/4" angle iron. It didn"t work on this application. Instead, i was required to use the "starter bump" method, and also I to be pleased with the results. Take precautions to disable the ignition (starting the auto is a an extremely bad point in this situation). I discovered pulling the spark plug wires the easiest way. Cable up a big breaker bar at a best angle to a considerable part. I supplied the lower control arm. Then provide the starter a couple of taps. No One have the right to be almost everywhere near that side the the vehicle during this procedure!
|The breaker bar needs to be secured prior to bumping the starter|
13) remove the harmonic balancer. Most likely you will need to use a puller together I did. If so girlfriend will need two bolts, 6mm x 70mm through a thread pitch of 1.00.
|This is a steering wheel puller the worked great here|
Setting increase the timing Positions that the Cam and Crank Shafts
1) collection camshaft timing. The feet in the electronic came sprocket will certainly align v a tick note on the bearing lid behind it. That may aid to examine this by placing a small tool v the hole and also feeling because that the recessed mite mark.
|The alignment marks because that the camshaft|
|The small bump must align through a note on the sprocket....|
|...this is the small v-shaped timing mark|
1) download the idler wheel if gotten rid of or replaced. Torque come 31 ft lbs.
|The idler is torqued to 31 ft lbs|
|Loosen the tension pulley-block to apply tension to the belt|
|The note highlighted in white is 45 degrees before TDC|
Reassemble the prior of the Engine
|I locked it with a 1/4 angle bracket through 6mm x 70mm bolts|
2) install the upper timing cover. Over there are 4 10mm bolts that three various lengths. The two upper bolts are longest and a wiring exploit holder slips over the end of the threads. The shortest bolt is shorter and the most complicated and will need to be started by feel.
4) install the former engine bracket through the 3 14mm bolts. I could find no torque specified for these bolts. To assure alignment, that is advisable to start the dogbone mount bolts before torquing the bracket.
6) install the strength steering belt. Usage a pry device to tighten the belt to suitable deflection while tightening the lower 10mm mountain bolt through a 3/8" ratchet with a 6 inch extension.
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7) Tighten the top 10mm power steering lock bolt. This one is a battle to reach. I provided a 1/4" ratchet and socket.
8) install the alternator and also drive belt. Madness in the long 14mm pivot and hand tighten. Install the 12mm
adjustment lock bolt and again hand tighten. Place the belt and turn the adjustment bolt counter-clockwise till the belt deflection is correct. Tighten both pivot and also lock bolt